Logan Square’s Pop Up Restaurant

Logan Square Kitchen
2333 N. Milwaukee Ave
Chicago, IL 60647
http://logansquarekitchen.com/


If there ever was a perfect testament to Logan Square’s Foodie character, it would certainly be found in the Pop Up restaurants hosted by the Logan Square Kitchen. During the weekend of the Milwaukee Avenue Arts Festival, this space hosted a chef and his small menu for one weekend only. The menu was a small and delicious addition to Logan Square, at least for that small glimpse of time.

Now, what is a pop up restaurant? It is as it sounds. A chef comes into a space and plans to try few dishes on the good people of Logan Square like guinea pigs for one weekend. The Logan Square Kitchen is one such venue that hosts these restaurants. It is an extremely cool idea to know that this one location will effectively morph into different restaurants throughout the year.


On the weekend of July 29-31 of 2011, the Logan Square Kitchen became a restaurant called “Gypsy”. The menu, as simple as it was, was very tasty. The chef was the same chef of Le Bouchon /. The main dish that caught my eye on the menu was the duck tacos. The duck was very tasty and oily, as expected from duck meat. It came served on a fried flour tortilla and topped with mandarin oranges, clinanto and pickled onions. The pickled onions added both a sweet and sour flavor to the taco, which I am still conflicted about. My biggest complaint was how greasy the dish was. Granted, it was duck after all. I think settling on a corn tortilla that was not fried would have helped cut back on the grease that did literally drip out onto my hand.

For a starter, I had an order of Risotto balls. These were extremely good. The outside texture was crunchy and the inside was the goowy risotto that tasted lovely with the tomato sauce and fresh basil on top. Compliments to the chef.


I recommend that all aspiring Logan Square chefs and admiring foodies keep an eye on what new pop up restaurants end up at the Logan Square kitchen. You’ll be supporting and fueling the Foodie movement that is, most certainly, taking over Logan Square.

Hearty Ecuadorian Lunch

Restaurant Ecuador
2923 W. Diversey Ave
Chicago, IL 60647

While I’m sure Restaurant Ecuador would be great in the evening with dinner, there is something that truly makes you feel like you are dining in another country when you have lunch here. Maybe it was how the bright light hits the well-decorated wall and blue tiled counter or maybe it’s the soccer game playing in the background. Maybe, it’s the fact that I am not a Spanish speaker and there was not a fellow white person in the room. Maybe it was my mighty appetite that usually hits around lunchtime that made me crave a big hearty lunch. Most likely, it was all of the above. Thank god for Restaurant Ecuador.

Sitting right on the northern border of Logan Square and Avondale sits this great little restaurant. From outside, it doesn’t look like much. From the inside, you will find locals (presumably Ecuadorian, mostly) enjoying this very hearty cuisine. There really is no other word to describe it. It’s extremely flavorful, filling and very lean. I did not find the Ecuadorian food here to be unhealthy in any way (within moderation). If you’re watching your waist, feel free to waddle down here and enjoy yourself.


In Ecuadorian meals, it is traditionally to have three courses: a soup, an entrée served over rice and finally a dessert. For soups, you could always dive right into trying the Caldo de Pata or Beef feet soup with chickpeas. Not that adventurous? A safe, yet interesting option is the Caldo de Salchicha, which is an Ecuadorian pork sausage soup. If soup wasn’t enough for you, one little appetizer that I would recommend is the tortillas de papa. This is one potato pattie that is served over a salad. It is light and flavorful.

The menu has an extensive list of different, tasty looking entrees. Seafood fans, you are in luck! This menu has 16 different seafood dishes for you to choose from. These include a fish and plantain tamale to a fish and plantain soup to a clam cocktail.


If you’re more of a land animal fan, I highly recommend the Seco de Chivo. This dish is goat stewed in a tomato-based sauce and served over rice. Like every other dish here, it comes with plantains. This stew was one of the best goat I have ever had as far as flavor is concerned. It was savory and the tomato really melded well with the goat. The texture, however, was still a bit tough. Understandably, goat is often a gristly meat, but with enough stewing (or braising) it can get fall off the bone. However, let this not deter you. If goat isn’t your thing, try the Llapingacho, which is two potato patties and two eggs with a peanut sauce over rice. Peanuts may throw a few people, but peanuts are often found in Ecuadorian food.

As a nice change of pace from some of the more upscale and more note-worthy restaurants in the neighborhood, Restaurant Ecuador still provides a lot of charm and great food. This place certainly shouldn’t be overlooked if you need a nice hearty lunch.


Getting down to Brass Tax:

BYOB
Date place? Yes.
Friend Hang out? Yes.
Recommended dish: Seco de Chivo
Price Range (2 People): +/- $30

Logan Square’s Adventurous Sushi

S@kura
2507 W Fullerton Ave
Chicago, IL 60647

While many would not associate Logan Square with sushi, this is a much more common type of cuisine being found in our fair neighborhood. Logan Square is lucky enough that it can lay claim to one of the more adventurous sushi places that this Foodie has ever been to in Chicago. This BYOB sushi bar only adds to the diversity of restaurants in Logan Square.


Sitting on the eastern edge near Lincoln Park, some might think that the interior of this restaurant would be something you would find on that side of the river. That said, it has a very low key feel that is perfect for Logan Square. Upscale, but not stuffy. No need to dress up, but would it kill you to wear a clean shirt? Christ! They do have outdoor seating, but unfortunately, Fullerton Avenue doesn’t offer the sort of calm, inviting streetscape that begs for al fresco. Sorry, S@kura. Nice try.

In spite of S@kura’s rather cumbersome seating capacity, its food does pack in locals on most nights. This is because the menu is full of sushi bar favorites like miso soup, California Rolls and Godzilla Rolls. But dig into this rather, large menu a little deeper.


The miso soup is a good start, but you’d be better off starting with a Wakeme Salad—a bowl of seaweed that is coated in a sweet and sour sasemi vinegarette. “Seaweed??” you say? Yes. It’s an acquired taste and texture, but keep going. Eventually you will appreciate how the seaweed and vinegarette blend.

As for rolls, a very popular one is the Godzilla roll. This roll of tempura shrimp, crab with cheese cheese and wasabi mayo has a spicy, yet smooth texture. It’s a mouth full, so make sure you share it with someone else. This one a very strong choice, but S@kura offers a much more notably exciting roll that I recommend—The Tie Me Up Roll.


The Tie Me Up Roll features long, stretchy ingredients (hence the name). Which are those? Raw Octopus and Seaweed. You can’t get more adventurous than this! The flavor is outstanding. The texture, however, is rubbery. You might want to bring some sake and get a few shots under your belt if you are of the faint of heart for this one.

If you’re looking for something not quite as Fear Factor-ish (is that reference still current, or did I just date myself?) then, the P’Dodo Roll is perfect for you. Flavorful, fresh and interesting. This roll has three types of fish, a spear of asparagus, cucumber, avacado, some wasabi for heat and rolled up in soy paper (an interesting change from seaweed paper).


If you really want to go nuts with adventurous, take anything from the Sashimi or Nigiri section of the menu. These items are either raw fish (Sashimi) or raw fish on a little pillow of rice (Nigiri). Here the list goes from anything from the squid to clams to smelt roe (smelt caviar (smelt eggs)). Take your pick. I quite liked the Unagi Fresh Water Eel. This is fresh water eel on a pillow of rice with a little bit of a sweet, brown sauce on top. The texture of fresh water eel is soft and delicate. Smooth, almost.

As mentioned before, S@kura is BYOB. If you’re not looking to drink, try their Thai Iced Coffee or Tea. These are sweet and creamy. The Thai iced tea has an incredible flavor that is simply sublime. Get it.



While Logan Square may not feel like the home of sushi restaurants, this is increasingly becoming a common commodity. S@kura provides a unique menu of this cuisine by providing the neighborhood with exciting, not commonly found rolls.



Getting down to Brass Tax:

BYOB
Date place? Yes.
Friend Hang out? Yes.
Recommended dish: P’Dodo Roll
Recommended drink: Thai Iced Tea
Price Range (2 People): +/- $40

Logan Square Farmer’s Market

Milwaukee Ave and Logan Boulevard
Chicago, IL 60647

You cannot beat Chicago in the summer. Like many other great neighborhoods in Chicago (and there are many) summer time becomes a time of the year to showcase what these communities have to offer. And they do it outside. Among Logan Square’s many different festivals and events one event is a summer staple—The Logan Square Farmer’s Market. Yes, this market is an almost enchanting way to spend your Sunday mornings in the summer while you do something good for yourself, our region and for your social status. After all, there’s no better trump card than telling your friends that you do your shopping in a REAL market.

Aside from providing you with the sights and sounds of open air markets that are sometimes over-celebrated in America in an attempt to embrace the easy and romantic aspects of European culture, this market also manages to make us feel better by being socially responsible. I’m talking about locally grown food, which is far more sustainable than food at your produce store. Yes, locally grown food will be a greater benefit to you and our society in the future than ‘organic’ (whatever that trendy buzz word means). Why? Well, to explain without sounding like a crazy conspiracy theorist, the price of oil is going up. We all know that. Food is an oil-intensive commodity. In the future, it will cost much, much more to ship food over the distances that we currently do. Growing food locally is one way to cut down on that cost, making our produce cheaper in the future. By buying into this system now we are encouraging a food production system that will avert a food crisis in the US. Pretty cool, huh?

Now that we understand the economics on locally grown foods, let’s see what tasty things we can buy here so we can pat ourselves on the back. This market has plenty of locally grown foods. Some say they are organic, so if you’re into that kind of thing, you’re in luck. The foods that are offered are seasonal. This being the beginning of the summer, there are lots of greens. Kale, Swiss chard, collard greens and asparagus. Very healthy and hearty vegetables that we all should be eating on a daily basis.

Since it is June, we are right in the midst of Strawberry season. This market has some of the best strawberries I’ve ever had here. Small, juicy, tart and extremely flavorful. These put your store-bought strawberries to shame and I am not exaggerating (I NEVER exaggerate). That may have been a slight exaggeration.

Aside from produce, there were other products you could take home, like locally grown honey. There was a great selection of different types, based on the types of flowers that the bees had pollinated. It’s rather impressive how honey can have different flavors based on that. I recommend sampling a few and tasting the different floral scents. If you’re a cheese lover (and I can think of one in particular) there is a cheese stand. We all know how this goes. Sample a few and then buy yourself a baguette at the La Boulangerie stand and you’ve got yourself a tasty lunch. (Again, we want to do the easy and romantic aspects of European culture).

Yes, La Boulangerie has a stand in the market, where they are serving a selection of breads and crepes. The wait is a little long, but it is an extremely popular destination at the market. There are several other food options throughout the market, making this a great spot to have lunch. One in particular I would point out is a stand that advertises organic Italian food. You better believe there were girlsin thrift shop sundresses and big, plastic, tacky, neon sunglasses were flocking to this one. In spite of it possibly being considered ‘fancy’, which would be frowned upon by this crowd, it is marketed as ‘organic’, thus being ‘acceptable’. And rightfully so! I enjoyed their Zeppoles. These were different from the ones that are served at Ciao Napoli. They were coated in cinnamon and sugar, which I found to be very enjoyable.


The Logan Square Farmer’s market offers all the locally grown foods that we all should be consuming during the summer months. Truth be told, it’s sold at a premium. Even if it’s just to grab a crepe and people watch, it’s surely worth your time.

Getting down to Brass Tax:

Date Place? Sure. You could make it work.
Friend Hangout? Yes.
Recommended Dish: Crepe
Price Range (2 People): +/- $30

An Off-The-Beaten-Path Brewery of Chicago

Revolution Brewing Co.
2323 N Milwaukee Ave
Chicago, IL 60647

One of the uniquely Foodie parts of Logan Square is this two and a half year old brewery. While this restaurant-bar manages to attract the usual types that glorify old lady glasses, it also has attracted Lincoln Park and Lakeview people. While they do make some excellent “Revolution”-themed beers, they also have excellent burgers and pizza. This brewery is off the beaten path from most Chicago landmarks and attractions, however, it certainly is something most should seek out. If there’s one thing you take away from this review, it’s that the burgers and beers are fantastic!


Revolution Brewing has several brews that are made in house. If you have lunch there on a Sunday at noon, you can tour the brewery for free. All the brews have a name that imply some sort of military or political upheaval theme like the Iron Fist Pale Ale or the Anti-Hero IPA. As a stout person, myself, I recommend the Repo Man Rye Stout. It has a nutty flavor and not too bitter. Just right. My favorite, however, was the aptly named, Coup D’Etat. This is a saison beer, which can be appreciated by all beer and non-beer drinkers alike. If you aren’t up on saison beers, get with the program. If beer is still not your thing, the Mexicali Mule is a nice, light tequila and lime, summer drink.


Their starters are very tasty. They have a delicious take on your run of the mill calamari. This version comes with asparagus, arugula and parmesan cheese lightly sprinkled on top. Calamari and asparagus is a surprisingly good combination. Give it a try. But, the most interesting combination for a starter that they have here is Bacon Fat Popcorn. If you’ve been converted to the side of being a bacon enthusiast and not watching your figure, grab yourself a bowl of this. The popcorn is topped with bacon fat, a few crispy pieces of bacon, sage and parmesan. At first the bacon fat texture can be off putting, but a few bites later and you will be on your way to getting your bacon fill and getting that much closer to a cardiac arrest!!! Mmmm. This dish is also great as just a drinking snack.


For an entrée, you have plenty of options. Salads and pizzas here are good, but if you stopped at that part of the menu, you’d miss the hidden treasure. Order from the sandwich and burger section. While the burger selection isn’t as crazy and diverse as, say Kuma’s Corner’s burgers, you can get a gourmet burger here hit the spot and in some ways rival Kuma’s. Mainly, you can get a great tasting burger without waiting for hours to get a table and without getting a burger whose size is wildly inappropriate for human consumption.

The Farmer’s Burger is excellent. This burger is your usual beef patty with spinach, beets, horseradish and a fried egg on top. It’s a very fresh combination that doesn’t feel too heavy. But, the best sandwich they have at Revolution is the Smoke Pulled Pork Sandwich. I love pulled pork. This sandwich may be the best one I’ve ever had. The pork was simmered in a mustard sauce and topped with honey-jalapeno coleslaw. Coleslaw is pretty much required for pulled pork, if you ask me. This sandwich has a little heat to it and it can very VERY messy, but it is delicious.


Revolution Brewing offers plenty of great food and brews for foodies. As their line of beers grow and spread through Chicago, this place will surely help put Logan Square on the map for foodies. If you live in Logan Square or even if you live off the Red Line, this place is worth the trek.



Getting down to Brass Tax:

Date place? Yes.
Friend Hang out? Yes.
Recommended dish: Southern Pulled Pork
Recommended drink: Mexicali Mule
Price Range (2 People): +/- $50

Taste of France in Logan Square

La Boulangerie
2569 N Milwaukee Ave
Chicago, IL 60647

Yes, ladies and gentleman, it has finally happened. Gentrification—for better or for worse—has brought a French bakery into Logan Square. By no means has Logan Square been bakery-less, as the neighborhood is dotted with panaderias for some time now (More to come on these later). This is because Logan Square has been a primarily Latino neighborhood for the past 20 to 30 years.

While being a bit more upscale establishment it’s understandable how some could see this establishment as being a bit contentious for the neighborhood. Nothing says, “yuppie” like “French Bakery”. Given that places like this are becoming an all the more common sight in Logan Square, it’s a realization that many are having as the future of this neighborhood.


Putting this geography lesson in gentrification aside, let’s talk about La Boulangerie. Walk in side and you will learn quickly that the owners are, indeed, French. For any of you out there that are looking for… “authenticity” this should give them a few points. The bakery has many different types of baguettes. Take home a Herbs de Provence baguette. Very tasty. Additionally, there are a number of different pastries, if that’s what you’re into.


Let’s say you’re looking to have a light lunch. The menu that they offer is small. They have savory and sweet crepes available that they will make right in front of you. I highly recommend going with savory. My favorite one there is the ratatouille crepe. Ratatouille is a mix of stewed tomatoes, zucchini and onions with goat cheese served in a crepe. It comes with a side salad. Throw in some carbonated French berry juice and you’ve got a pretty good lunch on your hands.


While bakeries are not new in Logan Square, they are changing in form, function and patrons for different purposes; much like this neighborhood itself.

Getting down to Brass Tax:

Date place? No.
Friend Hang out? Yes.
Recommended dish: Ratatoulie Crepe
Recommended drink: French Berry Juice
Price Range (2 People): +/- $20

Date Night Cuban Food

Siboney
2165 N Western Ave
Chicago, IL 60647

In a neighborhood that is gentrifying and certainly on its way to becoming a Chicago destination-neighborhood, it might appear as if Logan Square has an abundance of mom and pop's Mexican joints and neighborhood hang outs, but no date places. That's not to say that these places can't be good for dates. Truth be told, a truly good date restaurant is scarce currently, but they can be found and they are on the rise. Now, what you need for a good date restaurant is great food, inviting and comfortable atmosphere and, of course, a good drink selection. In 2009, Siboney opened on Western Ave offering Cuban food that meets this criterion.

Now, I know I have been hitting Cuban food a little heavy lately here at The Logan Square Foodie, but I have mainly focused on the Cuban sandwich and I should do this Caribbean cuisine some justice and look at some other dishes of theirs. And, in the meantime, you will now know of a new place to take your date to next weekend. After all, foodies make the best date planners.

Siboney is a restaurant-bar that has a chic, yet relaxed feel to it, which manages to attract local, Latino residents and other residents from around the city. By and large, though, this is one place in Logan Square where you can enjoy an evening and avoid running into someone who prides themselves on knowing an obscurer band than you. On weekends, you can find a live band in the bar, which only adds to the amenities. Find yourself a good spot in the bar and I think you’ll be set for the rest of the evening.


They have many delicious options for a starter. Many of which we have already touched on in other Cuban places in the neighborhood like Tostones and empanadas and papas rellenas. Siboney does a good job with these dishes. Try the empanada filled with ropa de vieja, which is a pulled beef that was simmered in a Cajun sauce. Also try their papas rellenas, which is a potato stuffed with beef. Both of these dishes come with their own ail oli that you can dip them into.


For a main course, I recommend going for sea food. If you’re into shrimp, get the Camarones Enchilados, which is shrimp cooked in a tomato, onion and pepper sauce and served with rice. The shrimps were cooked perfectly and the tomato sauce was excellent.


If you want fish, go straight for the Filete Dorado a la Plancha. This is a grilled Mahi Mahi filet served with rice and black beans. As someone who is not the biggest fish eater, I have to say this was excellent. If you’re a little squeamish on fish, let me walk you through it. The flavor is not fishy at all and the texture is firm (not rubbery firm). Without a doubt, this dish is highly recommended.


For drinks, on weekends if you come with a party of three or more, you get a complimentary pitcher of sangria. Not a bad deal. If it’s just you and your date, they have a lengthy drink menu with plenty of cocktails including margaritas, daiquiris, pina coladas, and mai tai—everything you associate with boat drinks. While boat drinks sometimes get a bad, suburban housewife rap, there is still one you can drink and be well respected by all and that is the mojito. Siboney has made an excellent mojito here. What sets this one apart from other mojiots is that they have not over-sugared the drink like many mojitos or years past. Additionally, there is a strong lime flavor that comes through, which I really liked.

Siboney is an excellent little date restaurant with a very good menu. I look forward to some day soon enjoying the bar and live music. Cuban Sandwiches are all fine and good, but Cuban cuisine has some very tasty dishes up its sleeve.


Getting down to Brass Tax:

Date place? Yes.
Friend Hang out? Yes, in the bar.
Recommended dish: Mahi Mahi
Recommended drink: Mojito
Price Range (2 People): +/- $45

Lula Cafe: The Alternative Brunch

Lula Café
2537 N Kedzie Ave
Chicago, IL 60647

With Memorial Day about a week away, you may be asking yourself, “Hey… Why do people say ‘Happy Memorial Day!’ when it’s a day of remembrance?” That’s a very good question and I don’t have an answer for that. But, you may also ask, “What’s a good place for brunch in Logan Square for this day of remembrance?” Now, I could easily send you to one of the many brunch spots in the area. While they are all fine and good, they can be a little heavy. What is the alternative?


Lula Café is your alternative to what many think of as a traditional brunch. Sitting right off the square, this restaurant offers an alternative and eclectic atmosphere to match the slightly alternative feel to this menu. Lots of the knick nacks hanging on the wall and windows could very well have been garbage picked. Some many find it to be charming while some of us see it as clutter. For the size of the space, they really try to pack lots of people in. In such cumbersome seating, smaller groups are recommended given that you will already be crammed closely to a girl with an asymmetrical hair cut and a Belle & Sebastian t-shirt and her aspiring DJ boyfriend.

While they do provide many of your standard brunch dishes, they usually add a twist to it. For example, this meat-scarce menu has a dish made up of eggs with smoked salmon scrambled in and some dill and cream cheese on the side or pancakes served with butterscotch syrup. Staying vegetarian friendly, there are plenty of different tofu dishes on their brunch menu. On the lighter side, their brunch menu offers oatmeals, granolas and french toasts. All of which come with many different types of berries and change seasonally. If you want to take your brunch away from breakfast and more towards lunch, I recommend their shiitaki mushroom and spinach quesadilla with fontina cheese. Very tasty, even meat eaters would agree.

For a drink, they offer a Bloody Mary that feels a little over priced for such a small glass. Their mix has a strong wasabi burn to it and a very thin texture. If you don’t like your Bloody Mary to be chunky, then you may be a fan of this one. Otherwise, they are one of the few brunch places in Logan Square that offer a Bellini on their menu. For those who don’t know, a Bellini is champagne and peach puree and peach juice.

While I am always a champion of traditional brunches with a heavier menu, but every so often it is nice to dabble in the lighter, alternative brunch side.


Getting down to Brass Tax:

Date place? Yes.
Friend Hang out? No.
Recommended dish: shiitaki mushroom and spinach quesadilla
Recommended drink: Bellini
Price Range (2 People): +/- $30

Cuban Sandwiches—Part 2 “Authentic” Cuban Food

Cafeteria de Pancho
2200 N California Ave
Chicago, IL 60647

Recently, I had a discussion with someone on Cuban sandwiches when I mentioned this series of entries I was working on. “You need to go to Pancho’s! Their sandwiches are awesome! Authentic!” I cringe at the over use of “authentic”. “What do you mean, ‘Authentic’?” I asked. “Ya know… it’s like the traditional Cuban recipe. The place isn’t dressed up. It’s REAL.” We all know when we hear this sort of dialogue being tossed around, we are being fed a bunch of hipster nonsense.

Needless to say, there’s so much wrong with this statement. It is, of course, a fallacy to view anything cultural (especially food) as being ‘authentic’ or ‘real’. First of all, it’s hard to claim something as ‘authentic’ given that culture and traditions, by definition, are in a constant state of evolution. What we think of as “authentic” Cuban food is simply a snap shot in time of that cuisine at a specific time and place. The very nature of the culinary arts is to constantly recreate dishes with other influences. Authentic? I’m not buying it. Don’t even get me started on something being ‘real’! (How is one cafeteria more grounded in reality than another?) But I digress.




Whether or not Pancho’s fits some fallacious definition of “authenticity” or proper existence in reality, they certainly are a foodie destination of Logan Square. Now, being a foodie does not require that you simply have to dine at the most trendy or experimental of restaurants, in fact, I would argue that a foodie enjoys both the gastropub and the dirt-cheap mom and pop's. Luckily, as we all know, Logan Square has both. Pancho’s is one such family-owned establishment.



With a very simple floor plan, you have a choice between small tables in front, bigger tables in the back and the counter. I love the counter, personally. While they certainly do make a tasty el Cubano here as well as 90 Miles, we’ve already covered that, so let’s venture out to something a little more interesting. If you’re looking for something hearty and flavorful, try the Ropa de Vieja. Now, this sandwich does deviate from Cuban sandwiches a little because the bread leads us into torta territory. Keep with me though! This sandwich includes shredded beef that has been simmered in a Cajun sauce, which has a number of spices (coriander comes through strong) and tomatoes. It’s a little runny, but that’s ok. Throw on lettuce, tomato and a little mayo and the sandwich is complete. I’ve had this sandwich at a few other places, but I think Pancho’s may do it the best.


For a starter or a side, they have an excellent stuffed potato. The potato is stuffed with ham and then deep-fried. It stays moist, warm and is a great side dish. I recommend this over their empanadas and plantain meat pies. Both of which, are still good as well.

This place has all your regular beers. If you want a full bar, just walk one store front up to Pancho’s Bar. Otherwise, they have a large selection of fruit smoothies that they offer. Note: They only serve them in the summer.

Pancho’s certainly ranks up at the top of my list for Cuban sandwiches in Logan Square. It’s not the fanciest of places, but it certainly can satisfy the snobbiest of foodies. You don’t need to be drawn in here by how ‘authentic’ it is. It stands on its own without that label. Whether or not Pancho’s is the “real’ existence and everywhere else that serves Cuban sandwiches is elsewhere in the space/time continuum, they do make a great sandwich.

Getting down to Brass Tax:

Date place? No.
Friend Hang out? Yes.
Recommended dish: Ropa de Vieja
Recommended drink: Fruit smoothies (In the summer only)
Price Range (2 People): +/- $15

Stopping Off For Dessert--Ciao Napoli

Ciao Napoli Pizzeria
2607 N. Milwaukee
Chicago, IL 60647

Photos by Megg at Pop Artichoke!


Some days you are just in the mood to make a real evening of your dining experience; the sort of night where you “stop off” for something. Even if that is kind of old fashioned, there are plenty of reasons to have a scene change from dinner to dessert. Thankfully, Logan Square has a great little spot that works as a great dessert place.

Sitting right off of the square, Ciao Napoli Pizzeria is another brick oven pizza restaurant in the neighborhood. You could say that this restaurant is the pizza alternative to The Boiler Room, given that there is a notable absence of the type of man-child that wears his sister’s jeans and a flannel shirt. Having said that, pizza is not the objective of this review. While I would recommend having one of their pizzas one day, I contend that this place does an excellent dessert and that should not be overlooked. Either on a date or catching up with an old friend (Pop Artichoke!), there are many reasons for foodies to fit desserts into an evening.

Ciao offers a large list of gelatos and sorbets—always a crowd pleaser. From your standard pistachio and chocolate gelatos to lemon and melon sorbets, there is a large, tasty selection to choose from. I am usually partial to a light sorbet after dinner, but given that we are doing Desserts with a capital “D”, let’s dive right in.

One special that they do offer on occasion is a Cannoli Martini. No, it’s not a cocktail, it is four to five cannoli shells sticking out of a martini glass filled with the cannoli filling of sweetened ricotta cheese and chocolate chips. The riccota was tasty, but had they added pistachios to it, I think it would have added another dimension to this—a missed opportunity in my eyes.



The recommended dish is the Zeppole, which are effectively “Italian doughnuts”. These were so good and reminded me of beignets from New Orleans. Freshly fried dough that is still warm, rolled in powdered sugar and a drizzle of Nutella on top of it. These were fantastic for dessert. Plus, they give you enough for two or three people.



Now, what drink shall accompany your doughnuts? While we could just have a glass of some sweet Moscato wine with our dessert, I think we should venture into the digestivo territory. Yes, the scary cordials that sit on the back of dessert menus that no one ever orders. I say, with a little careful guidance, you can be drinking these like a pro.

Understand that the point of a digestivo in Italian meals is to conclude the meal and aid in digestion. Many of the digestivos have a upwards of forty spices and herbs in them. Some of these spices and herbs actually compliment some flavors in your dessert and I don’t really see any reason why we cannot break rules a little bit and have a digestivo with dessert.

I found the Nonino Amaro to be sweet and have orange flavors in it. It paired very well with the Zeppole. The Strega had a strong alcohol burn to it and almost tasted like Sambuca. It did complement the Cannoli Martini. For dessert I would avoid the Fernet Branca because of it’s savory and bitter flavor. If you’re going to drink savory digestivos, it’s best that you observe the “concluding of the meal” rule. Always ask the wait staff for their recommendations and if you’re ever in doubt, you can always play it safe with Limoncello.

Dessert doesn’t have to just be the tail end of the main event, it can be THE main event. As foodies, we should, on occasion, make more out of dessert as a meal in its own. Ciao in Logan Square gives you this option with an excellent dessert menu.


Getting down to Brass Tax:

Date place? Yes.
Friend Hang out? Yes, with a FEW friends.
Recommended dish: Zeppole
Recommended drink: Nonino Amaro
Price Range (2 People): +/- $25

The Longman & Eagle--Brunch

2657 N. Kedzie Ave
Chicago, IL 60647

This restaurant bar has been on the top of my list for some time now and for good reason! I’ve enjoyed their whiskey and dinner here many times (We will explore that next month) but never ventured there for brunch. It being Easter and all, it’s high time I checked out their brunch.

Being the classiest restaurant in Logan Square demands a lot from the Longman & Eagle. Their menu has expanded since they opened last year and now they have international fame for their protein-heavy menu that they do so well. A word of warning for those watching their waste lines: As soon as you walk in, turn around and head out of there. No one dines at the Longman on a diet.

Their brunch selection is quite excellent. In keeping with their quaint, old-timey American menu, they offer plenty of staple breakfast/brunch options with a twist of uncommon ingredients. This ranges from Biscuits and Pork Sausage Gravy to Peeky Toe Crab Benedict to the “PBR” Breakfast for those of you who have cultivated a curly mustache. The best brunch dish that they offer, however, is a classic—hash. The Longman has added whole new dimensions to this dish of potatoes, onion and added duck confit to it and put two sunny side up duck eggs on top of it. The whole dish maintains an amazingly pleasant smokey quality to it.

How about a cocktail to complete your brunch? We could just leave it at their standard mimosa (which is excellent) or, we could venture into their realm of Bloody Mary’s. The Longman offers three different types of Bloody Mary’s starting with the standard vodka drink to a Corn Whiskey version and finally, tequila—“The Bloody Maria”. Which ever one you pick, prepare to be impressed! With a thick texture and a kick from the chiles, it’s one excellent brunch drink!

When it comes to the Longman & Eagle, nothing stands as a clearer example of the foodie place Logan Square has become. If you’re an early riser in Logan Square or even in Lincoln Park, I highly recommend making the trek here some weekend soon.

Getting down to Brass Tax:

No Reservations.
Date place? Yes.
Friend Hang out? Yes.
Recommended dish: Sunny Side Up Duck Egg Hash
Recommended drink: Bloody Mary
Price Range (2 People): +/- $40

Cuban sandwiches—Part 1

90 Miles Cuban Cafe
2540 W. Armitage

As anyone who has spent any time in Logan Square knows, this neighborhood has a strong Latino presence through Mexican, Puerto Rican, Cuban and Guatemalan identities. With all the gentrification that is becoming ever more apparent in Logan Square, it is important that we recognize and celebrate this other part of the neighborhood. As foodies, we can certainly enjoy the cultural diversity that Logan Square has to offer. That is why over the next few months, I will be reviewing one specific dish that Logan Square has an abundance of—the Cuban sandwich.
I start with the restaurant 90 Miles Cuban Cafe. This place has a fun, campy décor that feels extremely Caribbean. Images of Key West and Havana cover the walls. It's hard not to notice from the street. Some tables have old-fashioned telephones and others, sewing machines. All of the seating is outside. Not to worry, it is heated in an enclosed tent. Can’t say that’s the most sustainable idea, but I digress.
So, to clarify the objective of this series, I am showcasing the different Logan Square eateries that have Cuban sandwiches. We should first understand the origin of this sandwich. Back in Havana, Cuban sandwiches were traditionally the working Cuban man’s sandwich. Cigar makers and the like would enjoy a ham, swiss cheese, dill pickle and mustard sandwich all on Cuban bread and pressed on something like a panini maker (no ridges). Many different variations of this sandwich have popped up around the US, especially in Florida where there are regional favorites (ie. Tampa vs Miami).

90 Miles to Cuba has a traditional version (el Cubano), which was excellent. The sandwich wasn’t spicy by any stretch of the imagination, but it was solid. The mustard and dill pickles make an excellent compliment to the ham. For anyone who has never ever had a Cuban sandwich, this is a recommended first timer. From there, you can venture out and enjoy your pollo and bistec, but let’s get our basics down first.
For a starter, there is no shortage of plaintain and yucca options. I recommend the tostones. This is a twice-fried and once flattened plantain. 90 Miles likes to serve it with crushed garlic on top—an excellent topping since everything should have garlic on top of it in my book. I hate to recommend salt on it, but aside from the garlic, this starter is a little bland. This is most likely a result of me living in the modern age of over-salted foods. If you’ve never had a fried plaintain though, I highly recommend it.
As for drinks, you’re left a little on the sober side. 90 Miles is BYOB. You’re in luck though. If you BYOR (bring your own rum) they will make you an excellent Mojito pitcher that you have to spike yourself. Didn’t bring booze? Well, then I recommend one of their fruit shakes. From Guava to Mango, it’s very tasty and not overly sweetened. In fact, the strong suit of these shakes is that you get to enjoy the natural sweetness of the fruit—something we don’t enjoy very often in our overly processed society.

The Cuban sandwich is a delicious lunchtime option. For a dressed up ham and cheese, 90 Miles to Cuba makes a very good one. Having one only encourages me to venture off and try the other Cuban sandwiches that stemmed from this simple, yet tasty one.

Getting down to Brass Tax:

BYOB.
Date place? No.
Friend Hang out? Yes.
Recommended dish: el Cubano
Recommended drink: Fruit Shakes
Price Range (2 People): +/- $25

The Boiler Room: Oven Brick Pizza in Logan Square

The Boiler Room
2210 N California (Under the Blue Line)

Dining at the Boiler Room was an exciting choice for me to make. I haven’t had brick oven pizza in a long time and I was looking forward to eating this. I’m happy to report I was not disappointed!

The atmosphere of The Boiler Room can be described as “post-industrial chic”. That goes for the physical look and the attitude of the clientele--lots of metal, exposed ceiling, a hilarious CTA-themed bathroom, trucker hats and Pabst Blue Ribbon on just about every table. The music played fit the bill with a fair amount of punk.

Entrees: The pizzas are large enough for a minimum of 3 people. The Lombardi is the vegetarian option and it could only be described as flavorful and multi-dimensional. The pizza is topped with mushrooms, caramelized onions and little patches of blue cheese and is well appreciated by meat eaters and vegetarians alike. Blue cheese is an interesting choice for a pizza and it comes highly recommended.

Starters: For a starter, the item “PBR Meatballs” may catch the eye of the average hipster, but I wouldn’t hold my breath on anything fantastic coming out of it. The meatballs are stewed in Pabst Blue Ribbon and served in a bowl with marinara sauce and focaccia bread. The meatballs had a subtle flavor and didn’t lend itself to any real excitement. Thankfully the marinara was there to bring a flavor to the party, unfortunately, it only brought one flavor. What a shame. Pabst Blue Ribbon is too weak of a flavor to actually add any real flavor to meatballs and a darker beer may be required in future recipes.

Drinks: This place has seen a fair amount of promotion through yelp and word of mouth and you will wait on a Friday night for a table. Thankfully, they have an excellent selection of cocktails and beers for while you wait. Again, most people here were drinking Pabst Blue Ribbon, but I highly recommend that you DO NOT follow suit! For cocktails, try the “Ginger Snap Sap”. With a refreshing flavor at the beginning, the back end tastes as if you had just bitten into a piece of ginger. The “1988” tasted as if you had just drank a bowl of Cinnamon Toast Crunch. The little shot glass full of that very cereal is there to remind you that that was the intention.

Getting down to Brass Tax:

Cash Only.
Date Spot? No.
Friend Hangout? Yes.
Recommended dish: Lombardi Pizza
Recommended drink: The Ginger Snap Sap
Price Range (2 People): +/- $40

If you’re looking to have some good brick oven pizza and in the mood to explore a gritty, punk side of Chicago for the evening with friends, this is a good start!