Cuban Sandwiches—Part 2 “Authentic” Cuban Food

Cafeteria de Pancho
2200 N California Ave
Chicago, IL 60647

Recently, I had a discussion with someone on Cuban sandwiches when I mentioned this series of entries I was working on. “You need to go to Pancho’s! Their sandwiches are awesome! Authentic!” I cringe at the over use of “authentic”. “What do you mean, ‘Authentic’?” I asked. “Ya know… it’s like the traditional Cuban recipe. The place isn’t dressed up. It’s REAL.” We all know when we hear this sort of dialogue being tossed around, we are being fed a bunch of hipster nonsense.

Needless to say, there’s so much wrong with this statement. It is, of course, a fallacy to view anything cultural (especially food) as being ‘authentic’ or ‘real’. First of all, it’s hard to claim something as ‘authentic’ given that culture and traditions, by definition, are in a constant state of evolution. What we think of as “authentic” Cuban food is simply a snap shot in time of that cuisine at a specific time and place. The very nature of the culinary arts is to constantly recreate dishes with other influences. Authentic? I’m not buying it. Don’t even get me started on something being ‘real’! (How is one cafeteria more grounded in reality than another?) But I digress.




Whether or not Pancho’s fits some fallacious definition of “authenticity” or proper existence in reality, they certainly are a foodie destination of Logan Square. Now, being a foodie does not require that you simply have to dine at the most trendy or experimental of restaurants, in fact, I would argue that a foodie enjoys both the gastropub and the dirt-cheap mom and pop's. Luckily, as we all know, Logan Square has both. Pancho’s is one such family-owned establishment.



With a very simple floor plan, you have a choice between small tables in front, bigger tables in the back and the counter. I love the counter, personally. While they certainly do make a tasty el Cubano here as well as 90 Miles, we’ve already covered that, so let’s venture out to something a little more interesting. If you’re looking for something hearty and flavorful, try the Ropa de Vieja. Now, this sandwich does deviate from Cuban sandwiches a little because the bread leads us into torta territory. Keep with me though! This sandwich includes shredded beef that has been simmered in a Cajun sauce, which has a number of spices (coriander comes through strong) and tomatoes. It’s a little runny, but that’s ok. Throw on lettuce, tomato and a little mayo and the sandwich is complete. I’ve had this sandwich at a few other places, but I think Pancho’s may do it the best.


For a starter or a side, they have an excellent stuffed potato. The potato is stuffed with ham and then deep-fried. It stays moist, warm and is a great side dish. I recommend this over their empanadas and plantain meat pies. Both of which, are still good as well.

This place has all your regular beers. If you want a full bar, just walk one store front up to Pancho’s Bar. Otherwise, they have a large selection of fruit smoothies that they offer. Note: They only serve them in the summer.

Pancho’s certainly ranks up at the top of my list for Cuban sandwiches in Logan Square. It’s not the fanciest of places, but it certainly can satisfy the snobbiest of foodies. You don’t need to be drawn in here by how ‘authentic’ it is. It stands on its own without that label. Whether or not Pancho’s is the “real’ existence and everywhere else that serves Cuban sandwiches is elsewhere in the space/time continuum, they do make a great sandwich.

Getting down to Brass Tax:

Date place? No.
Friend Hang out? Yes.
Recommended dish: Ropa de Vieja
Recommended drink: Fruit smoothies (In the summer only)
Price Range (2 People): +/- $15