Lula Cafe: The Alternative Brunch

Lula Café
2537 N Kedzie Ave
Chicago, IL 60647

With Memorial Day about a week away, you may be asking yourself, “Hey… Why do people say ‘Happy Memorial Day!’ when it’s a day of remembrance?” That’s a very good question and I don’t have an answer for that. But, you may also ask, “What’s a good place for brunch in Logan Square for this day of remembrance?” Now, I could easily send you to one of the many brunch spots in the area. While they are all fine and good, they can be a little heavy. What is the alternative?


Lula Café is your alternative to what many think of as a traditional brunch. Sitting right off the square, this restaurant offers an alternative and eclectic atmosphere to match the slightly alternative feel to this menu. Lots of the knick nacks hanging on the wall and windows could very well have been garbage picked. Some many find it to be charming while some of us see it as clutter. For the size of the space, they really try to pack lots of people in. In such cumbersome seating, smaller groups are recommended given that you will already be crammed closely to a girl with an asymmetrical hair cut and a Belle & Sebastian t-shirt and her aspiring DJ boyfriend.

While they do provide many of your standard brunch dishes, they usually add a twist to it. For example, this meat-scarce menu has a dish made up of eggs with smoked salmon scrambled in and some dill and cream cheese on the side or pancakes served with butterscotch syrup. Staying vegetarian friendly, there are plenty of different tofu dishes on their brunch menu. On the lighter side, their brunch menu offers oatmeals, granolas and french toasts. All of which come with many different types of berries and change seasonally. If you want to take your brunch away from breakfast and more towards lunch, I recommend their shiitaki mushroom and spinach quesadilla with fontina cheese. Very tasty, even meat eaters would agree.

For a drink, they offer a Bloody Mary that feels a little over priced for such a small glass. Their mix has a strong wasabi burn to it and a very thin texture. If you don’t like your Bloody Mary to be chunky, then you may be a fan of this one. Otherwise, they are one of the few brunch places in Logan Square that offer a Bellini on their menu. For those who don’t know, a Bellini is champagne and peach puree and peach juice.

While I am always a champion of traditional brunches with a heavier menu, but every so often it is nice to dabble in the lighter, alternative brunch side.


Getting down to Brass Tax:

Date place? Yes.
Friend Hang out? No.
Recommended dish: shiitaki mushroom and spinach quesadilla
Recommended drink: Bellini
Price Range (2 People): +/- $30

Cuban Sandwiches—Part 2 “Authentic” Cuban Food

Cafeteria de Pancho
2200 N California Ave
Chicago, IL 60647

Recently, I had a discussion with someone on Cuban sandwiches when I mentioned this series of entries I was working on. “You need to go to Pancho’s! Their sandwiches are awesome! Authentic!” I cringe at the over use of “authentic”. “What do you mean, ‘Authentic’?” I asked. “Ya know… it’s like the traditional Cuban recipe. The place isn’t dressed up. It’s REAL.” We all know when we hear this sort of dialogue being tossed around, we are being fed a bunch of hipster nonsense.

Needless to say, there’s so much wrong with this statement. It is, of course, a fallacy to view anything cultural (especially food) as being ‘authentic’ or ‘real’. First of all, it’s hard to claim something as ‘authentic’ given that culture and traditions, by definition, are in a constant state of evolution. What we think of as “authentic” Cuban food is simply a snap shot in time of that cuisine at a specific time and place. The very nature of the culinary arts is to constantly recreate dishes with other influences. Authentic? I’m not buying it. Don’t even get me started on something being ‘real’! (How is one cafeteria more grounded in reality than another?) But I digress.




Whether or not Pancho’s fits some fallacious definition of “authenticity” or proper existence in reality, they certainly are a foodie destination of Logan Square. Now, being a foodie does not require that you simply have to dine at the most trendy or experimental of restaurants, in fact, I would argue that a foodie enjoys both the gastropub and the dirt-cheap mom and pop's. Luckily, as we all know, Logan Square has both. Pancho’s is one such family-owned establishment.



With a very simple floor plan, you have a choice between small tables in front, bigger tables in the back and the counter. I love the counter, personally. While they certainly do make a tasty el Cubano here as well as 90 Miles, we’ve already covered that, so let’s venture out to something a little more interesting. If you’re looking for something hearty and flavorful, try the Ropa de Vieja. Now, this sandwich does deviate from Cuban sandwiches a little because the bread leads us into torta territory. Keep with me though! This sandwich includes shredded beef that has been simmered in a Cajun sauce, which has a number of spices (coriander comes through strong) and tomatoes. It’s a little runny, but that’s ok. Throw on lettuce, tomato and a little mayo and the sandwich is complete. I’ve had this sandwich at a few other places, but I think Pancho’s may do it the best.


For a starter or a side, they have an excellent stuffed potato. The potato is stuffed with ham and then deep-fried. It stays moist, warm and is a great side dish. I recommend this over their empanadas and plantain meat pies. Both of which, are still good as well.

This place has all your regular beers. If you want a full bar, just walk one store front up to Pancho’s Bar. Otherwise, they have a large selection of fruit smoothies that they offer. Note: They only serve them in the summer.

Pancho’s certainly ranks up at the top of my list for Cuban sandwiches in Logan Square. It’s not the fanciest of places, but it certainly can satisfy the snobbiest of foodies. You don’t need to be drawn in here by how ‘authentic’ it is. It stands on its own without that label. Whether or not Pancho’s is the “real’ existence and everywhere else that serves Cuban sandwiches is elsewhere in the space/time continuum, they do make a great sandwich.

Getting down to Brass Tax:

Date place? No.
Friend Hang out? Yes.
Recommended dish: Ropa de Vieja
Recommended drink: Fruit smoothies (In the summer only)
Price Range (2 People): +/- $15

Stopping Off For Dessert--Ciao Napoli

Ciao Napoli Pizzeria
2607 N. Milwaukee
Chicago, IL 60647

Photos by Megg at Pop Artichoke!


Some days you are just in the mood to make a real evening of your dining experience; the sort of night where you “stop off” for something. Even if that is kind of old fashioned, there are plenty of reasons to have a scene change from dinner to dessert. Thankfully, Logan Square has a great little spot that works as a great dessert place.

Sitting right off of the square, Ciao Napoli Pizzeria is another brick oven pizza restaurant in the neighborhood. You could say that this restaurant is the pizza alternative to The Boiler Room, given that there is a notable absence of the type of man-child that wears his sister’s jeans and a flannel shirt. Having said that, pizza is not the objective of this review. While I would recommend having one of their pizzas one day, I contend that this place does an excellent dessert and that should not be overlooked. Either on a date or catching up with an old friend (Pop Artichoke!), there are many reasons for foodies to fit desserts into an evening.

Ciao offers a large list of gelatos and sorbets—always a crowd pleaser. From your standard pistachio and chocolate gelatos to lemon and melon sorbets, there is a large, tasty selection to choose from. I am usually partial to a light sorbet after dinner, but given that we are doing Desserts with a capital “D”, let’s dive right in.

One special that they do offer on occasion is a Cannoli Martini. No, it’s not a cocktail, it is four to five cannoli shells sticking out of a martini glass filled with the cannoli filling of sweetened ricotta cheese and chocolate chips. The riccota was tasty, but had they added pistachios to it, I think it would have added another dimension to this—a missed opportunity in my eyes.



The recommended dish is the Zeppole, which are effectively “Italian doughnuts”. These were so good and reminded me of beignets from New Orleans. Freshly fried dough that is still warm, rolled in powdered sugar and a drizzle of Nutella on top of it. These were fantastic for dessert. Plus, they give you enough for two or three people.



Now, what drink shall accompany your doughnuts? While we could just have a glass of some sweet Moscato wine with our dessert, I think we should venture into the digestivo territory. Yes, the scary cordials that sit on the back of dessert menus that no one ever orders. I say, with a little careful guidance, you can be drinking these like a pro.

Understand that the point of a digestivo in Italian meals is to conclude the meal and aid in digestion. Many of the digestivos have a upwards of forty spices and herbs in them. Some of these spices and herbs actually compliment some flavors in your dessert and I don’t really see any reason why we cannot break rules a little bit and have a digestivo with dessert.

I found the Nonino Amaro to be sweet and have orange flavors in it. It paired very well with the Zeppole. The Strega had a strong alcohol burn to it and almost tasted like Sambuca. It did complement the Cannoli Martini. For dessert I would avoid the Fernet Branca because of it’s savory and bitter flavor. If you’re going to drink savory digestivos, it’s best that you observe the “concluding of the meal” rule. Always ask the wait staff for their recommendations and if you’re ever in doubt, you can always play it safe with Limoncello.

Dessert doesn’t have to just be the tail end of the main event, it can be THE main event. As foodies, we should, on occasion, make more out of dessert as a meal in its own. Ciao in Logan Square gives you this option with an excellent dessert menu.


Getting down to Brass Tax:

Date place? Yes.
Friend Hang out? Yes, with a FEW friends.
Recommended dish: Zeppole
Recommended drink: Nonino Amaro
Price Range (2 People): +/- $25

The Longman & Eagle--Brunch

2657 N. Kedzie Ave
Chicago, IL 60647

This restaurant bar has been on the top of my list for some time now and for good reason! I’ve enjoyed their whiskey and dinner here many times (We will explore that next month) but never ventured there for brunch. It being Easter and all, it’s high time I checked out their brunch.

Being the classiest restaurant in Logan Square demands a lot from the Longman & Eagle. Their menu has expanded since they opened last year and now they have international fame for their protein-heavy menu that they do so well. A word of warning for those watching their waste lines: As soon as you walk in, turn around and head out of there. No one dines at the Longman on a diet.

Their brunch selection is quite excellent. In keeping with their quaint, old-timey American menu, they offer plenty of staple breakfast/brunch options with a twist of uncommon ingredients. This ranges from Biscuits and Pork Sausage Gravy to Peeky Toe Crab Benedict to the “PBR” Breakfast for those of you who have cultivated a curly mustache. The best brunch dish that they offer, however, is a classic—hash. The Longman has added whole new dimensions to this dish of potatoes, onion and added duck confit to it and put two sunny side up duck eggs on top of it. The whole dish maintains an amazingly pleasant smokey quality to it.

How about a cocktail to complete your brunch? We could just leave it at their standard mimosa (which is excellent) or, we could venture into their realm of Bloody Mary’s. The Longman offers three different types of Bloody Mary’s starting with the standard vodka drink to a Corn Whiskey version and finally, tequila—“The Bloody Maria”. Which ever one you pick, prepare to be impressed! With a thick texture and a kick from the chiles, it’s one excellent brunch drink!

When it comes to the Longman & Eagle, nothing stands as a clearer example of the foodie place Logan Square has become. If you’re an early riser in Logan Square or even in Lincoln Park, I highly recommend making the trek here some weekend soon.

Getting down to Brass Tax:

No Reservations.
Date place? Yes.
Friend Hang out? Yes.
Recommended dish: Sunny Side Up Duck Egg Hash
Recommended drink: Bloody Mary
Price Range (2 People): +/- $40

Cuban sandwiches—Part 1

90 Miles Cuban Cafe
2540 W. Armitage

As anyone who has spent any time in Logan Square knows, this neighborhood has a strong Latino presence through Mexican, Puerto Rican, Cuban and Guatemalan identities. With all the gentrification that is becoming ever more apparent in Logan Square, it is important that we recognize and celebrate this other part of the neighborhood. As foodies, we can certainly enjoy the cultural diversity that Logan Square has to offer. That is why over the next few months, I will be reviewing one specific dish that Logan Square has an abundance of—the Cuban sandwich.
I start with the restaurant 90 Miles Cuban Cafe. This place has a fun, campy décor that feels extremely Caribbean. Images of Key West and Havana cover the walls. It's hard not to notice from the street. Some tables have old-fashioned telephones and others, sewing machines. All of the seating is outside. Not to worry, it is heated in an enclosed tent. Can’t say that’s the most sustainable idea, but I digress.
So, to clarify the objective of this series, I am showcasing the different Logan Square eateries that have Cuban sandwiches. We should first understand the origin of this sandwich. Back in Havana, Cuban sandwiches were traditionally the working Cuban man’s sandwich. Cigar makers and the like would enjoy a ham, swiss cheese, dill pickle and mustard sandwich all on Cuban bread and pressed on something like a panini maker (no ridges). Many different variations of this sandwich have popped up around the US, especially in Florida where there are regional favorites (ie. Tampa vs Miami).

90 Miles to Cuba has a traditional version (el Cubano), which was excellent. The sandwich wasn’t spicy by any stretch of the imagination, but it was solid. The mustard and dill pickles make an excellent compliment to the ham. For anyone who has never ever had a Cuban sandwich, this is a recommended first timer. From there, you can venture out and enjoy your pollo and bistec, but let’s get our basics down first.
For a starter, there is no shortage of plaintain and yucca options. I recommend the tostones. This is a twice-fried and once flattened plantain. 90 Miles likes to serve it with crushed garlic on top—an excellent topping since everything should have garlic on top of it in my book. I hate to recommend salt on it, but aside from the garlic, this starter is a little bland. This is most likely a result of me living in the modern age of over-salted foods. If you’ve never had a fried plaintain though, I highly recommend it.
As for drinks, you’re left a little on the sober side. 90 Miles is BYOB. You’re in luck though. If you BYOR (bring your own rum) they will make you an excellent Mojito pitcher that you have to spike yourself. Didn’t bring booze? Well, then I recommend one of their fruit shakes. From Guava to Mango, it’s very tasty and not overly sweetened. In fact, the strong suit of these shakes is that you get to enjoy the natural sweetness of the fruit—something we don’t enjoy very often in our overly processed society.

The Cuban sandwich is a delicious lunchtime option. For a dressed up ham and cheese, 90 Miles to Cuba makes a very good one. Having one only encourages me to venture off and try the other Cuban sandwiches that stemmed from this simple, yet tasty one.

Getting down to Brass Tax:

BYOB.
Date place? No.
Friend Hang out? Yes.
Recommended dish: el Cubano
Recommended drink: Fruit Shakes
Price Range (2 People): +/- $25

The Boiler Room: Oven Brick Pizza in Logan Square

The Boiler Room
2210 N California (Under the Blue Line)

Dining at the Boiler Room was an exciting choice for me to make. I haven’t had brick oven pizza in a long time and I was looking forward to eating this. I’m happy to report I was not disappointed!

The atmosphere of The Boiler Room can be described as “post-industrial chic”. That goes for the physical look and the attitude of the clientele--lots of metal, exposed ceiling, a hilarious CTA-themed bathroom, trucker hats and Pabst Blue Ribbon on just about every table. The music played fit the bill with a fair amount of punk.

Entrees: The pizzas are large enough for a minimum of 3 people. The Lombardi is the vegetarian option and it could only be described as flavorful and multi-dimensional. The pizza is topped with mushrooms, caramelized onions and little patches of blue cheese and is well appreciated by meat eaters and vegetarians alike. Blue cheese is an interesting choice for a pizza and it comes highly recommended.

Starters: For a starter, the item “PBR Meatballs” may catch the eye of the average hipster, but I wouldn’t hold my breath on anything fantastic coming out of it. The meatballs are stewed in Pabst Blue Ribbon and served in a bowl with marinara sauce and focaccia bread. The meatballs had a subtle flavor and didn’t lend itself to any real excitement. Thankfully the marinara was there to bring a flavor to the party, unfortunately, it only brought one flavor. What a shame. Pabst Blue Ribbon is too weak of a flavor to actually add any real flavor to meatballs and a darker beer may be required in future recipes.

Drinks: This place has seen a fair amount of promotion through yelp and word of mouth and you will wait on a Friday night for a table. Thankfully, they have an excellent selection of cocktails and beers for while you wait. Again, most people here were drinking Pabst Blue Ribbon, but I highly recommend that you DO NOT follow suit! For cocktails, try the “Ginger Snap Sap”. With a refreshing flavor at the beginning, the back end tastes as if you had just bitten into a piece of ginger. The “1988” tasted as if you had just drank a bowl of Cinnamon Toast Crunch. The little shot glass full of that very cereal is there to remind you that that was the intention.

Getting down to Brass Tax:

Cash Only.
Date Spot? No.
Friend Hangout? Yes.
Recommended dish: Lombardi Pizza
Recommended drink: The Ginger Snap Sap
Price Range (2 People): +/- $40

If you’re looking to have some good brick oven pizza and in the mood to explore a gritty, punk side of Chicago for the evening with friends, this is a good start!

Why Foodie?

Alright, alright, some people out there may be thinking, "Logan Square? A Foodie destination?" And I say, yes. How? I'll explain.

I want you to think about what comes to mind when you think of Logan Square. Most of you will have an image of a series of hipster bars with hipsters on bikes drinking Pabst Blue Ribbon. While these images are still accurate and are very much part of the popular Chicago psyche, there is another image that is starting to come out of the woodworks.

I've lived in Logan Square for a few years now. As someone who has always had an appreciation for food in its many forms, I am always looking for the new and exciting creations that are being made anywhere in the city. The more time I spent in Logan Square, the more apparent it has become that this neighborhood is a gold mine for gustatory experiences. I have tried the many different flavors of Logan Square and watched over the past year how 10 new establishments have gone up throughout the neighborhood and it is quite clear that Logan Square is meant to be experienced through your taste buds.

For this blog, I intend to show you the many different dishes and restaurants of Logan Square, so you can know where to get the best of, the most interesting and the most authentic of the food of Logan Square.